Dahon Vitesse D7hg, Changing rear tire (Nexus 7 IG Hub) Options

[LMM8018]

Hi,

Just bought a Dahon foldie that runs on a Nexus 7. Need advice on the how-to's on changing the rear tire/tube. Appreciate guidance and tips. Many thanks!

[darkstar]

I have the nexus 8, to remove the rear wheel I just loosen the axle nuts and slide the wheel forward, then I can remove the chain. The chain has no break out link.

[hankski]

A couple of other thoughts:

Make sure that the the brake cable is released. A picture from Sheldon Brown: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/canti-direct.html

Set the shifter to 4th before removing the wheel. There is a reference alignment between the cassette joint pulley and bracket. See Sheldon Brown for a nice picture: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/nexus.html Use this as a reference when remounting the wheel.

Also, I find that it is pretty easy to remove the shifter cable at the hub by holding the cable housing steady by hand and using a pair of vice crips or pliers to pull on the cable and 10mm retaining nut taking it out of the cassette joint pulley slot.

Once this is done removing the rear wheel is pretty straight forward.

Bless Sheldon Brown. His legacy has saved me a lot of grief over the past six months since I bought my Vitesse.

[Steveroot]

Set the shifter to 4th before removing the wheel.

Also, I find that it is pretty easy to remove the shifter cable at the hub by holding the cable housing steady by hand and using a pair of vice crips or pliers to pull on the cable and 10mm retaining nut taking it out of the cassette joint pulley slot.

Bless Sheldon Brown. His legacy has saved me a lot of grief over the past six months since I bought my Vitesse.

It's easiest to remove the wheel if the shift cable is removed first. This, in turn, is easier if the cable is under the least amount of tension: in gear "1". See THIS PAGE. No pliers or wrenches are necessary.

Ditto your comment on Sheldon Brown. He is sorely missed, but his web site continues to be a great resource.
Steve

EDIT: @ DarkStar: What model bike do you have? AFAIK, all the ones with Nexus hubs have chains with master links that open with simple tools. I could be wrong. My Helios XL and Mu XL are both so equipped and I find it much easier to split the chain and lay the ends aside. On my bikes, I'm not even sure it's always going to be possible to move the wheel far enough forward to get the chain off. To some extent, this depends on how long the chain is to begin with, and how much chain wear has occurred, both of which affect the position of the axle in the frame.

[darkstar]

....
EDIT: @ DarkStar: What model bike do you have? AFAIK, all the ones with Nexus hubs have chains with master links that open with simple tools. I could be wrong. My Helios XL and Mu XL are both so equipped and I find it much easier to split the chain and lay the ends aside. On my bikes, I'm not even sure it's always going to be possible to move the wheel far enough forward to get the chain off. To some extent, this depends on how long the chain is to begin with, and how much chain wear has occurred, both of which affect the position of the axle in the frame.


As I pointed out in this earlier thread(at the end),
http://www.dahon.com/forum/index.php?showt...=5616&st=15
I never found the master link after ALOT of searching, but at least on my fairly new Mu Xl Sport the wheel moves far enough forward to remove the chain. On a different (wheel related) note, the spokes on the rear wheel got loose enough to make a rubbing/grinding noise when riding the bike, but tightening them took care of that.

[markymarkstack]

QUOTE "On my bikes, I'm not even sure it's always going to be possible to move the wheel far enough forward to get the chain off"

I'm assuming you are shoving the rear wheel as far forward as possible and then taking the chain off the front (crank) chain ring?

this should allow the rear wheel to then go back and out of the wheel's drop out slot.

if this is not possible the chain must be too short? or must have a split link or be a very bad design?!

the old Raleigh shoppers have a forward and downwards angled slot, which also prevents axle creeping - better design IMHO ?

[darkstar]

I had to deal with axle creeping once already, hard to figure out what was happening. Yea, that part of the design is not so good, should at least put some filler insert to keep the axle where it belongs.

[Steveroot]

As I pointed out in this earlier thread(at the end),
http://www.dahon.com/forum/index.php?showt...=5616&st=15
I never found the master link after ALOT of searching...
I remember this thread now. That's strange, but I guess they didn't give you a split link. You can get one with your next chain, though! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) I recommend this one: KMC Stainless Steel, INOX S10 1/2"x1/8" - 114 links. It will have to be shortened a few links most likely. No rust!

I'm assuming you are shoving the rear wheel as far forward as possible and then taking the chain off the front (crank) chain ring?

if this is not possible the chain must be too short? or must have a split link or be a very bad design?!
The chain has a split link that comes apart in a snap using a screwdriver. I find this much easier and cleaner than wrestling with the chain to get it off the sprockets. Besides, I have a chainguard which would have to be removed; too much work!

Steve